This area has serious access issues, try to limit your climbing here. If you do climb here pay close attention to parking and only park along route 11 and walk to the cliffs from here.


General Overview

Tilbury is a ridge of quartzite rock located in a suburban neighborhood of Plymouth Twp. Quest uses a wall which begins just left of a gully and continues right to where the ridge ends. However, there are more climbs further along the ridge beyond the course area, with possible two pitch climbs. The course area offers a variety of climbs for a small location, with routes ranging from 5.1 to 5.11. There are also places to practice placing gear and doing simulated leads. The area is owned by a private landowner, Jack Ostopak (570) 735-0778. The owner may not be friendly to climbers, and there have been issues with other neighbors and parking. For more info on Tilbury, check online at www.rockclimbing.com.

Directions

1. From Bloomsburg drive East on Rt. 11 to Plymouth Twp. and Tilbury.
2. Drive until you see Stookey’s Barbecue on your right, and a road on the left going up a hill. Take the uphill road.
3. Drive to the top of the hill. This will be a residential area. At the first intersection make a right.
4. The road loops around a neighborhood. At the end of the bend there will be a small shoulder with signs that say “No Parking.” This is the drop-off for participants.
5. The rocks can be seen through the trees. Follow the trail.

• Note: Possible alternate parking may exist in the neighborhood.

Note: Never park at the climbing site! Instead, drive down to Stookey’s and park as far left of the restaurant as possible, past the second telephone pole. Ask permission before parking, ideally during your scouting period. Possible contacts for parking in neighborhood? As of 1/12/04 the Plymouth Twp. Police have disbanded, but the State Police still respond to calls.

Safety Considerations
1. In late Fall, the ground is covered in leaves. Bring a rake to clear paths, or else people will be slipping a lot.
2. Emergency Evac: Location very close to road/residential homes. Cell reception is available in this area. Hospital numbers: St. Joseph’s Medical Center (570) 501-6000. 911 service is available.

Climbs: Not all climbs are listed, just ones we use most. Starting from just left of the gully and working right…

1. Fall Crack, 5.7 crack: Moderate vertical crack that can be quite challenging. Good for practicing gear placements
2. Green Slime, 5.11: Bolted line between 5.7 crack and gulley. Not a good choice for beginners.
3. First Climb, 5.1 crack: Very easy, a good first climb for new participants. Good for simulated lead climbs. Watch
4. out for pendulum swinging onto the adjacent wall.
5. Easy Slab: Contains two climbs approx. 5.4 and 5.6. Has lots of horizontal cracks for footholds and hand holds. Some spots may require smearing. A good challenge for new participants.
6. Double 5.10’s: Starts on either side of boulder problem. Pulls the roof. Alt. start on left. Not a good climb for most participants.
7. 5.8 arete: Moderate climb, starts at end of boulder problem. Follow obvious arête.
8. Dissention 5.7: Moderate climbs on side to the left of The Roof. Blue alt. is good beg/int. walkup, utilizing the ledge.
9. Aztec: 5.10b. The start begins at ledge after some scrambling. Follow cracks and roof to top. If you let go you swing out, but cannot regain footing. Must be lowered to start again. Use vertical crack at base for placing gear.
10. Shark’s Tooth, 5.7: Moderate. Classic Tilbury climb. Most people start at the tree and follow the arête up. The alternate starts are either just underneath the teeth (5.11) or the crack to the right. Must pull a small roof and follow obvious line to the top. An excellent end-of-the-day challenge for participants. Gear placements at base to right.
11. Mixed Climb: Difficult. Must use trad and sport to gain the top. Can see two bolts near cliff edge.
12. West Face, 5.9: Difficult. Sport route that begins on flat face, continues up to a ledge and follows several bolts) to
13. top. Might be useful for demonstrating sport climbing techniques.